Stranger in Acholiland

Gulu is situated in the northern part of Uganda differentiated from the south by the abundance of an ethnic group and language use of the Acholi people (hence the moniker, Acholiland) and by the level of development and resources. Off the beaten path for traditional tourists to Uganda, my temporary adopted home has given me a few surprises, and quite a lot of curious stares.

A few small quirks I noticed were that many vehicles have square shaped license plates, and the random vehicles that drive around town spewing cacophony from a loud speaker. Or the abundance of ‘pork joints’, where you can watch slabs of pork being butchered, skewered, and roasted on the spot. It’s pretty tasty, but best not to think too hard about the hygiene.

But one of the major cultural differences I noticed in my day to day was the handshake. When greeting people I simply gave them a quick, firm, single shake, but always noted a look of bewilderment on the recipient’s face. I was eventually instructed that here the handshake is actually a three-count maneuver; a firm traditional hand grasp, then loosening to pivot up against the thumb and re-grasp in an arm-wrestling pose, before returning to a traditional handshake pose. Depicted below.

Secondly, the contents of breakfast. Breakfast fare in Gulu is much more hearty than we in America would typically eat. My hotel breakfasts rotated through a few local selections.

Sometimes there is beef pilau (which I suspect is related to plov/pilaf); chunks of beef inside a mound of basmati rice seasoned with African herbs that my unrefined palate cannot identify.

Another is called “katogo”, which is a dish made of green bananas (motoke) that are baked(?, fried?) to have the consistency of potatoes, but obviously with a hint of sweetness. Served in some kind of broth or gravy, it’s actually quite filling.

Another example is beef on the bone, served in a type of sauce, eaten with chapati.

And lastly, a corn-meal mash served with baked beans. Which is interesting because the closest thing to what would be considered American is a rolex, which is essentially an omelet rolled up. However rolexes are considered street food for lunch.

Lastly, and as cliche as it sounds, the Ugandan people are incredibly friendly and helpful. So much so that  I’ve begun walking around without wearing my headphones because of the amount of people that greet me and ask how I’m doing. If I ask if a store or stand has something and they do not, they tell me where I can find it. Some volunteer to show me where it is, or to buy it for me, so that I don’t get ripped off.

Normally as a tourist if someone approaches me, instinct and experience has made skeptical of their intent. But here in Gulu, they seem to legitimately be curious why I’m here, how do I find Gulu, or if I’ve tried the local food.